Island Stories from the "Gananoque Reporter" in 1888

Editor's Note: Whoever thinks history is boring, never read the Gananoque Reporter in 1888 . . . or thinks like author and historian Paul Cote. Once again Paul has found information that I call "Research Gold." Enjoy.

Island Stories from the Gananoque Reporter in 1888

While doing some research in old issues of the Gananoque Reporter for 1888, I ran across a series titled ‘Gananoque’s Early Days’. Included in the articles several stories about various islands, mostly in the Admiralty Group. They are interesting enough to repeat here verbatim.

Tidds or Tremont Island, Gananoque’s Early Days, 9 June 1888

Note: The first King’s Road (now Highway 2) was nowhere near its present location. The informant’s memory wasn’t quite accurate as the man’s name was actually Elias Tidd. Tidd showed up in the claims for losses in the War of 1812. The night after the raid on Gananoque a spooked sentry shot Tidd’s horse.

“The roadway from the bridge toward Lansdowne ran through the woods considerably to the south of the present King St. A foot path led down along the river bank to Squaw Point, thence down by the St Lawrence River to the farm now owned by James Dempster, then the property of Neal McMullen [lot 16/1] . In the clearing at that point was a log shanty, afterwards occupied by William Tidd, the original settler of Tidd’s Island who died there in the winter of 1818”

Jack Straw Shoal, Gananoque’s Early Days,  21 April 1888

Note: By the time of the 1916 topographic map of the Gananoque area the shoal was noted as having a light house.

About 1839 J W Parmenter of Gananoque “…erected the first beacon on what is now called ‘Jack Straw’ shoal. It was first a crockery (illegible) filled with straw and that is how the name originated. Afterwards Mr Parmenter placed a barrel filled with stones, and a bush stuck in the middle; it went away every spring with the ice, and was replaced, for which Mr Parmenter was paid by the government. The pier and basket (illegible) on this shoal was built for the government by the late Joshua Legge. It was built in the Gananoque River in 1851, and floated down to the shoal. Mr [Samuel] Rogers towed it down with a scow and four tiers of the timbers were placed on the scow to lighten it enough to float over the shoal, when the timbers were put on again and the whole loaded with stone.”

River Thieves, Gananoque’s Early Days, 26 May 1888

Note: Thievery on the river is nothing new.

“The river thieves have commenced their summer business and will probably do their best this year, as they have done before, to collect from farmers and others having property near the water the living which they believe the world owes them. A favorite field of operations with them seems to be east of Gananoque, and around Halstead’s Bay. And among the men most frequently victimized is Mr Chas H Gray, who has lost cattle, sheep, vegetables and other kinds of outdoor property in past years, and is now threatened with more intimate visits. Last Tuesday night his stone house at the river side was entered and rummaged pretty thoroughly. Entrance was effected by breaking in a window, both glass and sash being smashed, and then an inside door was forced. All that Mr Gray missed certainly are two heavy tweed overcoats; one a plain dark grey cloth, and the other a lighter shade with large check. No one lives in the house, but Mr gray had left a lot of clothing and other articles there for use when he had occasion to stop there.”

Hay Island, Gananoque’s Early Days, 9 June 1888  

Note: It was originally known as Nut Island amongst other names. It also explains the origin of the marsh at the east end of the island.

“Hay Island was part of the purchase from Sir John Johnson and was cleared about 1832. It had been occupied by someone previously to coming into Sir John’s possession but the occupant was unknown. The remains of a log house and garden, near the foot of the island, were still to be seen when the clearing was commenced. It was cleared for Messrs McDonald by Peter Pelow. The timber from the centre up to the head was mostly basswood, beech and maple; down towards the foot it was principally elm. One remarkably large elm tree, three feet in diameter, stood very near the extreme eastern end of the island; but the bank has so worn away since that time by the action of the water, that the spot is now quite a long distance from shore and forms part of the bed of the river.”

Hog Island, Gananoque’s Early Days, 9 June 1888  

Note: This gives a rather detailed and exciting account of the hogs on the island. 

“Hog Island, now known as McDonald Island, was occupied and cleared by Daniel Howe in 1822. Howe lived in a house on the south side of the island and did quite a business in liquor, principally whiskey, which he quietly brought over from New York State in the shape of highwines . The only common liquor procurable in Gananoque then was rum, and when whiskey was wanted, Mr Howe’s “Sheban” was visited. In 1829 Mr Howe sold out to Messrs McDonald and moved to one of the rear townships in this county.

Among the effects bought of him was a yoke of oxen, the heaviest and largest ever known in this section. Messrs McDonald with a view of disposing of the shorts, made at the flouring mill, stocked the island with hogs, whence came the name of “Hog Island”. Large pens and yards were built, and the cleared land was planted with potatoes. In the fall the potatoes were boiled in two potash kettles fitted up for the purpose, and the mash well mixed with shorts. This was fed to the pigs to fatten them. One fall Mr Rogers killed and dressed 150 hogs on that island. The business continued three or four years, but as it did not pay it was abandoned. The expenses were considerable, as men were kept there year round, and the cost of fatting and dressing was too much to leave a profit at the low price then received for pork.

One of the difficulties encountered was the persistent inclination of the pigs, when let out, to take to the water and swim to other islands or to the main shore. A pig is by nature a wild animal, given to roaming the woods, climbing hills and wallowing in wet and swampy places. And once at large it soon becomes so wild and fierce as to be dangerous. Numerous stories to prove the above are related in connection with the Hog Island enterprise. One of them may be told here. Col Stone had a large field enclosed on the west bank of the Gananoque River, about where Mr Wilson’s brick yard is now. It was used for several years as a bull pasture but one year was ploughed up and planted with potatoes. That year a large sow escaped from the island and made her way to the woods on the main land where she brought forth a litter of pigs. All efforts to capture the sow proved ineffective and she and her brood became a terror to those who had business west of the village. Col Stone’s potato field was visited by them every night, and the potatoes rooted up and devoured, despite the plots of hunters and others on guard.

At length, Wm Clixby noticed that they came and went into and out of the field always by the same track, and through one particular place in the fence. He contrived a rope snare at the fence and caught one of the young pigs; the next night he snared another, and so on till he secured all the young ones, 8 or 10 in number. The old sow was more wary of the trap, and strong enough to break out when caught; but she was eventually found entangled so securely that she could not get away. The captors were still afraid of her and before attempting to remove her, treated her after the manner followed by the Lilliputians in dealing with Gulliver. She was bound and tied and muzzled in every possible way, and brought down to a barn that stood on the lot now owned by Harry Muir, corner of King and Tanner Streets. When let loose in the barn she became very fierce and made savage rushes at all who showed themselves at the door. She was kept on exhibition till nearly everyone in the Village had gone up to see her, and then she was killed by a rifle shot.”

Hickory Island, Gananoque’s Early Days, 16 June 1888

Note: This article needs some explanation, which isn’t given in the article itself. It involves the uprising in Upper and Lower Canada in 1837/38 and has been called the McKenzie Rebellion or the Patriot War. Although the American government was publicly neutral the mostly Canadian rebels and their American supporters were tacitly allowed to operate in the US. The Gananoque story actually began a few days earlier with Elizabeth Barnett, Gananoque’s Laura Secord.  Her family lived in LaFargeville, NY, and she was teaching in Gananoque. On visiting her family she heard of the build-up of men in Clayton planning to raid Gananoque. She took a horse and sleigh and sped across the ice from Clayton to Gananoque (about 10 miles) and reported the activity to the town doctor, William Potter. He raised the alarm and this is where Reuben Powers Colton’s personal and detailed story starts.

“Mr RP Colton, who was actively engaged during the troubles of 1837-38 writes the following concerning the expected invasion of Gananoque by way of Hickory Island. As most of our readers are aware Hickory Island lies just above the south side of the head of Grindstone Island. It is quite a large island, large enough to make a good farm, and for many years was occupied by the Livingstone family. It lies on the Canadian side of the line, though much nearer the American than the Canadian mainland; and was chosen as a place of rendezvous by the Patriots. Mr Colton says: I do not remember the exact date, but it was almost the middle of February, 1838. The weather was clear and extremely cold. Reports had been coming in for two or three days, of a gathering of Patriots at Clayton, then called French Creek. Van Rensselaer, one of the Albany family, was said to be in command, and the people of Gananoque were a good deal excited. Several of the ladies accepted the hospitable invitation of Mrs Anderson to go to her house in Charleston; and, I think, Mr S Rogers took a load of the gentler sex out to Mr Emery’s, at Marble Rock. Gananoque was full of reports of various kinds; full of volunteers; and full of whiskey. About ten o’clock on the day I speak of, a scout came in from the head of Grindstone Island and reported that a complete stream of sleighs loaded with men carrying rifles was passing between Clayton and Hickory Island. In the meantime six or eight Companies of Militia were doing active duty here in drilling. Among those were Capt Kilborn’s of Newboro, Capt Cameron’s of Kingston, and Capt Murney’s of Belleville, who commanded a fine body of Rifles, mostly young men and under capital discipline.

About 11 o’clock Mr Joshua Legge was seen going into headquarters escorted by an orderly. He was not at that time in his “war dress” which was invariably the case when he had anything of importance in hand. There was very little done here in those days, outside, without Mr Legge being in charge. And when on active duty always wore a warm jacket, rather long, with large pockets at the sides, the front of sheep’s gray, the sleeves some dark colour, stout and warm, and the back a different colour from the rest. We young people called it his war dress, and if a water wheel was to be put in, a dam repaired or a warehouse put up, Mr Legge would be seen in his war dress, with a square and compass in his hands, and surrounded by 8 or 10 men hard at work. Well seeing Mr Legge in charge of an orderly going into headquarters we anxiously looked for the next move. The reports still came in – Hickory Island was covered with men and sleighs – the rifles were glistening in the bright noonday sun – and another load of ladies was sent to the rear while stalwart volunteers were rapidly coming to the front. About 2 o’clock Mr Legge was seen walking rapidly down main Street, this time in his war dress and a handspike on his shoulder, with 30 or 40 men at his back. At the foot of Main Street the vacant lots were covered with square timber drawn there to be rafted in the spring and Mr Legge was very soon among the timber. He divided his party into three or four gangs, and the way they made those long timbers – 12 and 14 inches square – fly around was a caution. They rolled them up until a pretty solid breast work 5 or 6 feet high was built from the high rocks across the foot of Main Street to a small wooden warehouse that stood where the present railway station is.

At this time the air was full of reports. A scout from the head of Grindstone Island had seen a field piece, unusually long, mounted on runners, with ammunition boxes and 6 or 8 gunners, drawn by four horses, approaching Hickory Island, and in two or three parts of the field they were forming lines; most of the people carried rifles.

About 4 o’clock I was sent out with instructions to ride as far as Wallace Fairman’s (up the front road to where the Methodist Church is now), call at every house, and request every able bodied man to report at the Blockhouse, Gananoque, as soon as possible. I galloped off full of zeal in what I considered a matter of no little importance. About a mile up the road I met the Kingston Battery – 3 brass guns mounted on runners, the ammunition boxes stowed beside the guns, and each carrying its compliment of gunners, sitting on the boxes beside the guns, wrapped up in their overcoats. Though the sun shone brightly, the air was so cold that each man and horse was covered with frost. “What news?” cried the officer in command. “All quiet at present, but you will have warm work before morning; they are coming” I replied. At this a hearty cheer was given by the whole force, as they drove rapidly on. I followed my orders to the letter; stopped at every house, delivered my message, and was gratified to see the men cheerfully prepare for an instant start. Once in a while there was a slight demur from the “better halves.” I think it was one of the Cowans who replied to his wife, “Hoot Mollie, do you think I’m going to allow the Yankees to raid Gananoque and I never get a shot at them? Get down my rifle till I clean it.” And this was the spirit manifested generally; all were ready to give a cheerful hand.

Before I got back it had become quite dark, and coming down near where I now reside at a sharp gallop, I was suddenly brought up and my horse thrown back on its haunches by a couple of bayonets in front, and a resolute command of “stand and give the countersign.” I explained that I had been sent out on special duty before the picket was placed or the countersign given out, and it was important that I should report at headquarters immediately. “All right,” said my old friend Alex Auchinvole, whose voice I then knew, “you can pass on”, and he raised his musket. I came on, but at a more moderate pace, as there were other pickets to pass, and soon arrived at headquarters, which for the night were at W S McDonald’s house, which a year or two afterwards was burned. I went in and reported, finding Col Philpotts and two or three inferior officers, strangers, there. Everything was comfortable inside, though the night was very cold. I should have mentioned that a small squad of horsemen had been quartered for some little time for carrying dispatches, patrolling, &c, and in cases of emergency like the present, a few civilians like myself mixed with them. For patrolling, a civilian who knew the country, or the channels on the river, was sent out with a dragoon and the patrols all reported at headquarters.
About 9 o’clock I was ordered down the river with a dragoon to where the steamer Dolphin was frozen in, some 5 miles. We found everything safe at the boat; good fires going, and nothing more exciting than a couple of card parties. We got back to the village about 12 o’clock; I put my horse in the stable, reported, made due provision for the inner man, listened to the reports of other patrols as they came in, till about 5 o’clock in the morning when I was sent out with a dragoon, with orders to get as near Hickory Island as possible and see what things were like. We went on the ice from Clarence Street and struck across to Parmenter’s Island. It was quite dark and I kept a little too far up; and in crossing the channel south of Hog Island my horse went through the ice with his hind legs; but he was a powerful animal and pulled himself out with his forelegs, without my leaving the saddle. I called to the dragoon, close behind me,  to draw back and go lower. We proceeded cautiously, crossed Parmenter’s Island, and a mile or two farther up, just as it was beginning to get light, we met John Pennock, a well known character here then. He had come from Hickory Island and reported that the Patriots had all left; that they commenced driving back to Clayton early in the evening before; they attempted to form lines and called for volunteers but only a small majority of those present fell into line, though most of them had rifles, and did not seem to be overly anxious to use them. It was thought that at one time there were over 2,000 men on the island. I told Pennock to go on to headquarters with the dragoon and report what he had seen, when I thought they would overlook the suspicious circumstance of his being found so near the enemy’s camp.

But he was, I think, imprisoned for some weeks and had no little trouble, though, I believe he was innocent of any wrong intent. I went on, and as it became lighter, within half a mile of Hickory Island, I discovered Capt Murney and his rifles. They had been quartered on Sir John’s Island and left Gananoque after dark and marched up. Now they were making a reconnaissance. I quickened my pace and bore off to the right tp meet them. They were in extended line, three or four feet apart; officers well in front with their right arms covering their rifles to keep the powder dry; and with a steady resolute pace were approaching the island. It struck me as rather plucky move on Capt Murney’s part, as he had every reason to believe that there was a large force of men on the island. I rode up, saluted the Capt and related what I had heard from Pennock. Then I went on and was the first to reach Hickory Island. I secured my horse, found the doors of the house not fastened and went inside. There I found the remains of a large fire on one side of the room, and Mr and Mrs Livingstone in bed on the other side. I soon got warm by the fire and went outside to examine matters. By this time the Rifles had come up, and we found the snow trodden down over 8 to 10 acres. Men, horses and sleighs had evidently been there in great numbers. And that long field piece that we heard so much about, drawn by four horses, was there, ingloriously dismounted. It consisted of an oak log 6 or 8 feet long, with a 4 or 5 inch bore, pretty strongly banded, and no doubt, if properly served for a short time, would have done some execution. But the ammunition was certainly defective. It consisted mostly of punchings from boiler plate that had been found at a boiler shop in Watertown. There was perhaps a ton of such stuff found, but no powder. Capt Murney ordered a hole cut in the ice and the shot thrown into the water.”

Thus ended the Hickory Island affair proper. But Van Rensselaer hung about Clayton and the northern part of New York most of the winter. And the excitement was kept up through the spring and summer.

These stories from the past as recalled by old timers may not be completely accurate but they provide colour and information that never makes it into official documents..

By Paul Coté

Paul Coté is a resident of Gananoque. He has socialized and worked on the River for most of his life. History has always been a passion and he is a self-confessed genealogy addict. Recently retired from contracting on the river, he now has time to pursue and write about  his research. He is currently working on a book tentatively titled "The Shaping of Early Gananoque" and he has also published two more books: one titled "One Room Schools" in the Rear of Yonge and Escott Township and another one on "The Early Water Powered Mills and the Evolution of the Roads" concerning the same township. His book, "Sheatown: A Vanished Irish Catholic Community in Protestant Yonge Township, Leeds County" was reviewed in TI Life December 2019 issue. See Paul's past TI Life articles here (prior to 2019) and here (2019 - present).